Last post

Woman, hard at work

Vieux pecheur at Joal Fadiout. The island is covered in sea shells, as is the mixed cemetery

This will be my last blog from Senegal. Throughout this leg of the trip, I have met and chatted with many friendly people. It was a very different experience from that of Mali, where, though I was obviously an outsider, I was not travelling as a tourist and I was able to meet people on different terms. Here, I am a tourist which often means people were trying to sell me things. Even the act of taking a picture clandestinely, or so I thought, was noticed and you were expected to give something in return. Despite the constant sales pitch, people are genuinely friendly and welcoming. There is a "don't worry, be happy vibe" which apparently is unique to Senegal. I did not experience quite the same thing in Mali where people were friendly in a more formal way, respecting personal boundaries more, I suppose.

The Senegalese have a "zen" quality as one of our French expat hosts explained. According to him, there are no problems in the country between the many linguistic and ethnic groups which make up Senegal. Nor are there problems between Muslims and Christians, something which was pointed out to me on several occasions and of which the Senegalese can rightly be proud.

This same French expat felt that if there were to be problems in the country its source would hunger. In his estimation, the the standard of living has gone down for many Senegalese with the price of imported rice doubling in the last several years. Senegal is dependant on imported food. So despite the obvious signs of increasing wealth: new construction, decent roads, more cars albeit many of them in appalling condition, rural areas still lack electricity and access to water and school fees for the better schools are beyond the reach of most. Our taximan yesterday, said that he pays abut 50 Euros a month to send his three sons to a Catholic school.

There is little tax collection and few jobs outside of the city. People eke out their living in informal ways: selling crafts or snacks, taximan driving vehicles which should be condemned, "guiding" ....everyone is a guide! And so on. So, even though I sometimes found the constant efforts to sell and provide services annoying, I understand and admire their efforts, day after day to provide for their families in a way which they must also find tedious. They do this with unfailing good humour.

So, this is my final post. Thanks for following my travels. I really enjoyed doing this. I also enjoyed reading the comments and looked forward to your reflections. We are off tonight to Paris and then Montreal.

Patty in Dakar, Senegal

How do you make a horse stop?

In Ngaparou, we treated ourselves to horseback riding on the beach. It was a lovely experience, to ride along the beach, listening to the surf. Luckily I rode a docile, patient creature who knew the way and wasn't too confused with my efforts to make her go left, right and to stop. I feel I made great strides in this one outing! I also know, now, that no amount of gentle kicks will make a horse go forward if she is peeing!

More Senegal notes and pics

Happily, in my element....

When we were staying in the Sine Saloum Delta area, we had lovely accommodations which I think I already mentioned. Something special happened there for me. I was invited by the women of the kitchen to come and cook with them. It was a good chance to talk to them about their lives. They were also very curious about my life in Canada.

When I told them that I didn't need my husband's permission to come to Africa, they were completely silent. You could see the wheels turning as they processed that bit of information. One of the women said that her husband would "me taper bien fort" if she were to disobey him, adding that a good man is hard to find. I said that I had a very good husband!

I had lunch with the women; a rich, spicy fish stew served in a common bowl over rice. We all sat around the bowl, making room for each other much like we did as children playing choo choo. As I ate, I kept discovering little bits of fish, expertly deboned , in front of me. The woman next to me was taking good care of me.

Ngaparou, along the Petite Cote, Senegal

Can't you almost smell this??!!

Just a quick post to say hello. I will try to post some photos in the next couple of days. We are staying at a lovely lodge run by a French couple. Very clean and tastefully decorated; a sharp contrast to the grittiness, complete with cockroaches at no extra cost; of last night's accomodation in M`Bour, the second largest port in Senegal.

We hired a local guide, who was worth every CFA we paid him to take us on a tour of the port and to see the "return of the fishermen---le retour des pecheurs". We were transported to the port by caleche (small wooden flatbed, drawn by horse). It`s very democratic; everyone crowds on to the caleche.

The beach was crowded with the wives and sisters of the fishermen, the fishermen, pirougues, and others looking to sell or trade goods. The women are there to receive the day's catch, to prepare the fish and to sell to people on the spot. If they don't sell it all, they will trade fish for fruit and vegetables at the market above the beach. Some of the fish will be transported by cart a few km down the road for smoking while others will be salted for sale later or export to neighbouring countries.

It was a stinking, bustling place but there was the feeling of energy you get at a working port. No one paid too much attention to us as they were busy conducting their business and attending to their boats.

Bye for now. Patty in Senegal

Travelling in Senegal

Collecting salt

View from our room in Palmarin, Sine Saloum Delta

Ile de Goree

Hello dear friends!

Am using a French keyboard, an exercise in frustration so it may squelch my already dubious eloquence. (And there may be spelling mistakes; may my colleagues forgive me!)

This is a beautiful and interesting country despite the challenges of transportation, the garbage, the poverty. Like Mali, the people are friendly and open. They have a more sophisticated tourism industry and the locals are on to it. Which is a good thing. I hope they continue to forge their own brand of tourism that doesn't compromise their values.

Have been to Ile de Goree, reputedly, one of the ports through which many slaves passed. Today, it is a rather quaint island with a community of artists and gentle hustlers.

We have been travelling along the Petite Cote, south of Dakar. Spent a few days in the Sine Saloum delta, a gorgeous place; the muted blues and beige of the sky and sand and the giant sentenals, the baobabs, breaking the horizon to create a calming, soulful landscape.

Now, in Nianing, slowing making our way back to Dakar. Had the privilege of visiting a local primary school which was built and equipped by our hostess at the Ben'Tenier, our hotel. She has established an organization which raises funds for projects that help local women and children.

Women's work: Something that has become very evident during this trip is that the people, especially the women work very hard. Two recent examples: 1.In the Sine Saloum area, the women collect salt all day long (see pic above of the big hole in the sand) and receive very little payment. Salt is collected and then taken in big pirouges south to Gambia where it is exchanged for contraband. 2.Here, in Nianing, the women spend all day on the beach collecting small seashells used as decoration in the concrete construction around here. I can't imagine that they receive much for their labours.

Bye for now!!

Dakar Market

Bargaining with the smooth talkin' Darkois

Roof of the market, above.

Another beautiful day in Dakar! Today, we walked to the Institut Francais where we had a great breakfast and coffee.

As we were walking out of the Institute, we were picked off by a smooth talkin' Darkois. He is a vendor at the artisanal market, seemed nice so away we went. He found us functioning bank machine and then took us to the market. Loved the market. The picture shows the interior roof of the market. Brings to mind the Saint John, NB market for me. The market was full of fish mongers, butchers and fruit and vegetables. He then ushered us to his stall, brought us tea, the strong, hot, syrupy type I've come to enjoy and then convinced us to buy some of his goods. Everyone went away happy. He walked us a ways back towards the hotel and before leaving us planted a kiss on both cheeks. If anyone of you finds yourself in Dakar, I am to give you his card!:)

This will be my last blog for a while unless I manage to find an Internet cafe. Up to now, I have had my little computer and Wifi has been easily found. We are leaving tomorrow for Ile Gorée and then south to the Sine-Saloum nature preserve. I will be leaving my little computer with Monique's sister. I will keep notes and blog when I can.

Bye for now. Patty in Senegal.

Dakar, Senegal

Fishing pirogues, Dakar

ViewPicture: View from second floor landing of our hotel, the Sokhamon

I feel like I have landed on a different planet! When I stepped from the plane a cool breeze caressed my face! Dakar is surrounded on three sides by the ocean. I am writing this from the hotel deck overlooking the ocean, towards the west.The sound of the crashing waves and the cool air are a soothing balm.

Despite the favorable change of weather, I feel sad to have left Mali behind, the lovely, gentle ways of the people and my great experience there.

Dakar is a big city, lots of hustle. We happened to wander into a part of the market and found some of the vendors relentless. Though other people we have met have been kind and helpful. There is the kind of big city anonymity here. There appears to be a thriving middle and upper class. Lots of enormous houses overlooking the water. We happened upon a gelato place, (you'd look long and hard for that in Bamako!) and there was a party for very chic-looking 7 year olds going on. I was intimidated by them! The birthday girl looked to be Lebanese of which there is a sizable community here.

It's just coming up to 7:30 so will bid farewell for now and go plan the day.